Vellore, Kanchipuram, Mahabalipuram

January 2023

Sharing some notes and images from Vellore, Kanchi and Mahabalipuram trip.

Saw this huge farm equipment on a petrol bunk on the way.

Visited 400 year old fort in Vellore. Still in good condition. Has a large moat around it. Tipu’s family and his loyal soldiers were imprisoned here by British after his death.

Few large and old banyan trees in the complex. Also houses an archaeological survey museum.

Also visited Jalakandeswarar temple within the fort complex. Built 400 years ago in Vijayanagara times. Found a gopuram with very few human/God figures. Also had a Kalyana mandapam with exquisite reliefs of cavalrymen on horses, Yalis. Mandapam was a tall structure with carvings on the roof too. Sharing some of the images below.

Kanchipuram reminds one a typical town 30-40 years ago. Laid back, not much traffic and honking, kids going to school on foot, bicycles. Small single-story houses dotting the main streets with sloping roofs. Most houses sprinkling water in front area and drawing rangoli twice a day.

The Gandhi Road in Kanchipuram has about 40% silk saree shops. Shops sizes range from 1 room shop to multi-story shops with huge area on each floor. In one such shop, saw a ready Kanchivaram saree worth 4 lakh as ready inventory and store was filled with such sarees.

As recommended by the hotel staff, started early in the morning to Kamakshi temple. Gopuram with all-female Swaroops, golden top for one of the garbhagriha, a large waterbody inside the complex. Rare to see Kurma and Matsya Swaroop carvings/reliefs.

And an interesting puzzle… counting monkeys in the relief.

Next to a 1300 year old Kailashnatha temple. Built by Pallavas. One of the oldest I have visited. Carvings and reliefs made from sandstone. Good detailing, considering that the temple was so old. Nandi outside the external wall of the temple, but inside the compounded area of the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). Very nice facade. Picture showing corridor between the inner and outer walls below.

Along the compound wall facing inside were multiple carving blocks with roof and side walls. Lots of lion figures all over. Along the garbhagruha outer wall were also multiple panels with elephant head at bottom panel, the main panel above consisting of some figure.

The temple is free of crowd in early mornings. I saw a few folks using the large compound for morning jog.

Next to Ekambareswar temple. A typical Chola built temple. Large area, tall compound walls, multiple Nandi figures on the compound walls, tall gopuram, high roofs for even an elephant to walk around easily. Gopuram adorned with multiple figures of dwarpals based on temple god. There is a supposedly a 3500-year-old mango tree inside. Multiple Shivalinga lining the exterior wall of the temple from inside can be seen on the way to garbhagriha or pradakshina area.

Also. an interesting fact on Nataraja. The small swarf at the Nataraja feet is called Matalka that symbolizes spiritual ignorance, greed. The dwarf stays pushed down by Nataraja.

Next you Varadaraja Perumal temple. Rare Vishnu temple built by cholas. Usual Chola signature. Nandi’s missing atop the peripheral walls indicating a non-Shiva temple. There is a lizard carving on the wall inside the temple. You can read the story on Google. A 1000+ years old temple.

In the mandapam here is a treasure of carvings including a chain made of round cut stones. Sharing a few images.

Sharing pics of temples at Mahabalipuram. Except for shore temple, all the rest cut and carved from a monolithic rock. Includes pics of Ganesh Ratha, Varaha temple, an incomplete temple, Krishna mandapa, Pandavas Ratha. All 1300+ years old temples.